Friday, July 12, 2024

The latkes at Mamaleh’s in Cambridge’s Kendall Square. (Photo: Madeleine Aitken)

Price: $8.50

The humble tuber! Potatoes are versatile vegetables, offering themselves to baking, frying, mashing and roasting and reaching across cultural food boundaries from Irish to Indian with ease. One of the potato’s best forms is the latke, and the best place to find latkes in Cambridge is – without a doubt – Mamaleh’s Delicatessen. A reimagined Jewish deli that toes the line between nostalgically old school and evolutionarily trendy, Mamaleh’s is slinging plates of three latkes (plus sour cream and apple sauce) for $8.50. The latkes, which came piping hot and with a healthy sprinkle of kosher salt, are fried to a perfect deep brown. The potatoes are shredded extremely thin, which makes for a rough, crunchy texture on the outside and a soft, pillowy inside. The contrast of this bite is a beautiful thing, and I finished the plate wishing for more.

Mamaleh’s Delicatessen, 15 Hampshire St., Kendall Square, Cambridge

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