Chinese food is one of the most popular varieties of dine-in and takeout cuisine in Cambridge and beyond. But this was not always the case – before the mid-20th century, many Americans had never tasted Chinese food. Restaurant dining of any kind was largely reserved for special occasions, with most people preparing and eating food at home. It was even more unusual for those who did dine out to eat at a restaurant serving food from a culinary tradition outside of white American or Western European heritage.
That began to change in the 1950s, when chefs such as Joyce Chen introduced Cambridge (and the nation) to Chinese cooking. Serving her famous egg rolls and other elements of Chinese cuisine, first to Harvard and MIT students and then to the wider community, Chen went on to run four restaurants in Cambridge as well as to offer cooking classes, host her own PBS cooking show, publish a cookbook and sell a line of foods and cooking tools over the next 40 years until her death in 1994.
History Cambridge will partner May 6 with the Chinese Historical Society of New England and One in a Billion Productions on “Stories of Cambridge: Chinese American Culinary Pioneers.” Held at the main branch of the Cambridge Public Library, this event will explore the lives of Chinese Americans in Cambridge through the lens of food and family, with speakers sharing their personal stories, delving into how the restaurant business has shaped their family histories and the broader Chinese American experience in our community.
The program will be moderated by Mable Chan, founder and president of “One in a Billion,” a podcast dedicated to collecting and sharing the stories of “Asian character and culture, one person at a time.” Speakers will include Stephen Chen, president of Joyce Chen Foods; Paul Lee, co-owner and manager of the Hong Kong Restaurant; and Richard Ning, grandson of the original owners of the Young Lee Restaurant. The panel will discuss the role of food in their personal and family lives and the broader Cambridge community, exploring Chinese cuisine’s journey from unfamiliar and “exotic” to being served at some of the most popular establishments in the city and beyond.
We hope you will join us for this opportunity to learn about the rich history of Chinese Americans in Cambridge, celebrate the enduring role of food in family life and community building and gain a deeper understanding of the cultural tapestry of our city. This event is free and open to the public at 6 p.m. May 6 at the the Cambridge Main Library, 449 Broadway, Mid-Cambridge.
Click here to register, and sign up for the History Cambridge newsletter here to stay up-to-date on this and other programs on Cambridge history. Learn more about our Chinese Americans of Cambridge Oral History Project and read about Joyce Chen and other Chinese American culinary pioneers on our website.
About History Cambridge
History Cambridge started in 1905 as the Cambridge Historical Society. Today we have a new name and a new mission. We engage with our city to explore how the past influences the present to shape a better future. We recognize that every person in our city knows something about Cambridge’s history, and their knowledge matters. We listen to our community and we live by the ideal that history belongs to everyone. Throughout 2023, we are focusing on the history of Cambridgeport. Make history with us at historycambridge.org.
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Beth Folsom is programs manager for History Cambridge.
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