For a speakeasy, Brick & Mortar’s entrance isn’t too difficult to find. The door is unmarked, but there’s a small, light-up sign that says “bar,” and as soon as you walk in and up the stairs the lively chatter is unmistakable. There are a few tables surrounded by groups of people and an oval bar with fluorescent lights beneath. Brick & Mortar has been listed as one of the best bars in the United States by Zagat, Food & Wine and Esquire, and the ambiance and drink menu makes it easy to see why.
I first tried the What’s New Pussycat?, which includes vodka, lychee liqueur, aperol, plum wine, local wildflower honey and lemon. The cocktail was so sweet and refreshing, with the lemon and honey flavors as highlights. If I weren’t there on business, I would have had a second and possibly even a third. I would recommend it to anyone who likes a sweet, fruity cocktail.
My second drink was the Darling Nikki Vesper, from the martini menu. Bartenders limit two of these per customer, which isn’t surprising considering they consist of Belvedere vodka, Empress 1908 gin, butterfly pea blossom, Lillet Blanc vermouth and Tahitian vanilla. This strong drink is an otherworldly shade of purple; it looks like something created by the mind of a science-fiction writer. (My photos do not do it justice.) It still tastes like a martini, albeit elevated with the vanilla and butterfly pea, adding an elegant, floral touch without diluting the strength.
I sipped my drinks at the bar, watching trios of friends out for drinks, couples on dates and people sitting solo and doing crosswords. There is a murmur of conversation even on a slow night that reflects the bar’s reputation for community as well as its national prestige.
Brick & Mortar creates original, delicious cocktails as well as futuristic, creative spins on the classics in an environment that feels equally welcoming and stylish. It exceeded my expectations, with extra points for having oysters on the half shell on the food menu.
Brick & Mortar, 567 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge
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