
Price: $6
How many times can a pastry filled with spinach and feta thrill? It’s easy to think that after a few variations the combination will get old, and no amount of clever messing about with the carbs around it will be able to overcome the essential sameness of the flavors. Amba, the Will Gilson and Brian Mercury restaurant in East Cambridge’s new First Street Market, clears that sour taste out of your mouth with its boreka – yet another example of an onrush of Israeli offerings in the area. The seeded, croissantlike pastry was butter-rich and addictively salted. The filling was substantive. The combination, unexpectedly refreshing: Though just sitting behind glass before bagging, on a wooden slab next to goat cheese and za’atar brioches, the bites felt mysteriously chilled under the summer sun. I did not expect to get this cool boreka, and then I didn’t expect to finish it. But I did.
Amba, 55 First St., East Cambridge
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