Price: $10
You can already sense winter coming, and soon the agreeable burn of dishes such as Prik Nam Pla’s veggie dumplings will be essential. These halved squares of rice noodle and generous chops of chive are boiled, fried to a congeelike consistency and served hot with a dipping sauce that cools and suffuses them in a tangy sweetness – a perfectly sugared chili carried by light, nonsour vinegar. It’s all a bit magical. The crisped dumplings retain their heat even if you stop to savor each bit, so they transmit two kinds of wholly pleasant warmth with the lingering effect of any good comfort food. The sauce, meanwhile (at a restaurant named after a Thai sauce, though not this one), inspires experimentation: A delicate corner dip? Thorough soaking of the chunk? Go without and let the dumpling speak for itself? You’ll run through these eight pieces before arriving at an answer.
Prik Nam Pla, 24 College Ave., Davis Square, Somerville
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