The state of flux of the bodega eateries in the Lesley Building in Porter Square has been going on for some time, but it was especially bittersweet to hear Tampopo will close sometime in June.
Chef/owner Yasumasa Ito opened the rice bowl (donburi) and street noodle shop since 1992, making it an OG of the Asian food court. In fact, it was the second shop to open after Sapporo Ramen, which just relocated.
Fun fact: Tampopo was named after the 1985 Japanese “noodle western” and surprise art house hit, but that film was all about ramen, something Tampopo does not serve. Still, Tampopo has had the same spirit of resolve, resilience and community as the noodle shop in the movie. And the food — its shrimp tempura udon is outstanding: a light yet savory soy and fish dashi broth topped with several large plump shrimp, lightly tempura fried.
Tampopo also features pork and chicken cutlets that you can get in a curry or donburi rice bowl. My pick is the katsu don version that glazes the cutlet with fluffy whipped eggs, soy and sautéed onions — it’s richer and more flavorful.
Most everything you get at Tampopo is reasonably priced — an udon or rice bowl with cutlet or tempura will cost you around $15, and the list of sides is near limitless; octopus balls, shumai, fried horse mackerel, seaweed salad and kinpira gobo (burdock root) to name a few. There’s also a “healthy” tofu and steamed vegetable section of the menu and Tampopo’s agedashi tofu (tempura fried tofu cubes in a dashi broth) impresses. Almost all main dishes come with a side bowl of silky, rich miso soup.
Until June, you’ll still have the opportunity to get your umami fix from Ito and his friendly staff. For an appetizer of sorts, stream the 1985 movie and be amazed by its sexy, sensual gonzo-ness. It’s one of the best films about food to grace the big screen.
On the theme of Asian cuisine, the Lunar New Year — the Year of the Horse — begins Tuesday and will be marked through March 3rd). Pagu, the Michelin-tagged dining destination in Central Square, will celebrate this Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday with lion dancing, Taiwanese beef noodle soup, steamed fish and specialty cocktails. Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, another one of Cambridge’s eight listed Michelin spots, started offering “eight lucky dishes” February 10, each curated to represent prosperity, abundance and good fortune for the year ahead. That special will run through March 3.
A stronger
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