“Ham on Rye” may just be my favorite Charlie Bukowski book; in it, the titular sandwich serves as a metaphor for the slim pickings in Depression-era L.A., where the semi-autobiographical narrative takes place. In Harvard Square, however, ham sandwiches reign supreme and there is nothing meager or shabby about them.
We’ve always been a fan of Oggi Gourmet’s pizza (slices for $4 and under) and its signature jerk chicken sandwich, but owner Steve Welch also serves up a cleverly crafted, hot-pressed Black Forest ham panini enlivened with fresh arugula and a grainy brown honey mustard that gives it both a bite and a sweet tang. The light and airy sourdough it’s pressed on is an even bigger win. The grease-free, griddle-pressed panini makes for a hearty midday meal that verges on too much with its side of fairly addictive fries. I generally try to opt out of them, but temptation wins out as much as it’s thwarted.
For something equally hammy yet entirely different, head to Pronto in the Charles Hotel complex. Not sure enough folks know about it, but Pronto’s a worthwhile breakfast and lunch stop nearly out of sight behind Henrietta’s Table in the adjoining office complex. It closed during Covid and for a while, it seemed like the closing might be permanent. Thankfully, that turned out not to be so. Pronto is a pretty small place, just a deli counter with a backroom kitchen, and its menu is tight too: breakfast (egg plates and sandwiches), pastries and cookies, cold and hot sandwiches, a hot entree of the day (brats, mac and cheese and chop suey, among the ones I spied), housemade soups of the day (which tend to be Italian; one always looks to be a minestrone) and fresh, prepackaged salads.
On the sandwich slate, most are named after world-renowned cities, including Casablanca (curried chicken salad on brioche), Cairo (roasted red peppers and goat cheese with a balsamic drizzle) or Rome (a chicken caesar salad wrap), but the blessed ham-wich I keep teasing is the the Giant Causeway, which comes in a hot pressed brioche bun with arugula, aged cheddar and bourbon barbecue sauce. It’s a big mound of lean ham nearly as densely packed as the subs from P&K Deli in Somerville and may induce the need for a siesta.
Unwrap and enjoy your Pronto feast in the communal café tables in the building’s lobby or, of course, the gorgeous Charles Hotel terrace: the garden side tables on the upper tier or tranquil beer garden space below by Noir. Similar to P&K, Pronto has limited hours that echo the work week (7 a.m. to 3 p.m).
Oggi’s has more of a gathering space – a neat, loungey anteroom where it hosts jazz performers on certain nights. It also serves beer and wine, so you can get that ham panini or a reasonably priced slice of pie, pop the cap off a beer and get some work done as you feast.
Oggi Gourmet, 30 Dunster St., Harvard Square, Cambridge
Pronto, 20 University Road, inside The Charles Hotel, Harvard Square, Cambridge
Speaking of Pagu: Chef Tracy Chang and the good folks at Wulf’s Fish plan a Tuna Fest at the end of the month at which ceviche and the underappreciated tuna collar will be feted and feasted upon.
Tom Meek is a writer living in Cambridge. His reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in the WBUR ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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