Posto, at the forefront of fine Italian and pizza, was at home for 13 years on Elm Street at the neck funneling into Davis Square. It’s still in Somerville but relocated to Assembly Row, in the space that was Frank (the food by former L’Espalier restaurateur Frank McClelland was good, but it lasted only a few months). The move makes sense, as the Alpine Group that runs Posto owns the Painted Burro eateries with locations in Davis and Harvard squares and has been moving away from simple neighborhood nooks. I’ve been missing Elm Street’s quaint, black marble wraparound bar, which was good for sports watching – if that’s your thing – with a glass of wine. The new, repurposed bar at Assembly Row is long and cold at a glance, but has some that same intimate feel once you’re seated. It’s the new space’s dining-area nooks that give off the coziest vibes, but we also love that Posto put in one of those giant, meticulously tiled pizza ovens front and center for the operation.
Pizza and pasta were always the bones of Posto. There were changes in quality over the years and in menu, costing diners a fantastic Jonah crab tortellini in favor of a more traditional chicken Parm; the rebooted Posto is back to its top game. I didn’t try out any of the Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizzas, though the ones I saw come out of the kitchen looked super appetizing, with plenty of toppings and cheese spread generously to the edges of a billowy crust. The ones with marinara are right off your classic pizzeria slate, with a heavy carne lean; the white list has alluring options that include peach and prosciutto, apple and gorgonzola, Buffalo chicken and an “Almondine,” which features toasted almonds, ricotta and chili-infused honey.
I did, however, indulge in a garlic pane, an oblong wood-fired flatbread made of that fine pizza dough slathered in olive oil and garlic, crowned with fresh, melted mozzarella and served with a side of marinara for dipping. Best to dig in while it’s warm; once you start, you can’t stop. The dough is soft, chewy and moist, and that sauce with a zingy kick is perfect – though for the most it leans on the spice, there’s a slight tomato-onion sweetness to it.
For my main, I went for the Tuscan seafood stew, tender rings of calamari, succulent shrimp and and flakey salmon and swordfish chunks in a tangy tomato broth powered by chilis, peppered with black olives and encircled by open mussels. Grilled ciabatta accompanies the heart-heaped bowl so you can soak up all that goodness. The mussels, being merely fine, were the weak link, but all the flavors and textures played together well and overall this is a pleasing and hearty change-up from your typical cioppino – which, by the way is a U.S. spin on the classic Italian zuppa di pesce; cacciucco is the Tuscan version – in its robustness of flavors and ample inclusion of olives, tomatoes and onions. Given this pleasure, I’m now intrigued by the swordfish steak that comes with a butternut squash purée and cranberry reduction.
The service and presentations were spot on, and the melting pot of diners that malls tend to draw makes for great people-watching. Posto’s rebirth at Assembly Row makes it a worthy stop after a hard-charging shopping haul or before seeing a movie a few doors down at the AMC Assembly Row 12. It fits well in the vein of other Row casual-fine destinations such as Salt + Stone, Earl’s and the Civility Social Club, though in addition to that cozy bar from Elm Street there’s a rocking happy meal steal (three course meal for under $20) I’ll miss. Maybe that’ll return as a thing at Assembly.
Posto, 400 Assembly Row, Assembly Square, Somerville
Cambridge writer Tom Meek’s reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in WBUR’s The ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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