Seven police officers were dispatched to Pammy’s restaurant, located at 928 Massachusetts Ave., Thursday at about 8:00 PM in response to loud protests by animal rights activists. The popular bistro has experienced protests repeatedly over the last two weeks, with activists demanding a permanent commitment to removing foie gras from its menu. Pammy’s, which offers a seasonal menu of rotating items, took foie gras off its menu as scheduled earlier this week, but protests continued.
Thursday night’s protest involved about twelve people with whistles, bullhorns, and what appeared to be a vuvuzela. They arrived at about 7:55 PM, and stayed for over an hour. Police, who arrived at 8:10, monitored the protestors until they dispersed at about 9:00, but otherwise did not interfere.
Protestors grabbed the attention of passersby with their chants of “Pammy’s has blood on their hands” and “Pammy’s, Pammy’s, what the f***? Only monsters force feed ducks.” They were also seen occasionally banging on the front windows and taunting patrons as they left the restaurant, which earlier this week received recognition from the Michelin guide as a recommended spot.
Why Foie Gras?
Foie gras, meaning “fat liver” in French, is exactly what the name describes: the fatty part of duck or goose liver. (Most foie gras in the United States, including the kind that appears on the menu at Pammy’s, is from Moulard ducks.) Considered a delicacy by some, it is generated by force feeding ducks in the last three weeks of their lives in order to generate fatty liver, a practice that has long sparked controversy in the animal rights community.
“Foie gras is probably the most disgusting thing on the planet,” said one protestor, who declined to give a name. “Imagine being in that position.”
Activists say there is no ethical way to produce foie gras, although farms, including Pammy’s distributor Hudson Valley Foie Gras, disagree. Hudson Valley touts that its ducks are raised in cage-free barns, and contrary to the protestor’s claims, transitioned from feeding ducks with metal tubes to a short plastic hose as of 2020.
Pammy’s said in a statement Saturday morning that “The foie gras we have procured in the past is different from the foie that the protesters choose to spotlight as fear-mongering propaganda.”
Campaigns to convince restaurants and hotel chains to stop serving foie gras have ramped up in recent months. Activists report that the Omni hotel chain, which includes the Omni Parker House in downtown Boston, capitulated to protestor’s demands last month and will no longer be serving the product in its restaurants or for events. The production of foie gras is also banned in many countries, including Argentina, Australia, and the United Kingdom.
“Pammy’s is not a franchise … they could protest a distributor. It’s unfair.” Ethan Miller, who works nearby.
Multiple groups have been involved in the protests at Pammy’s. Last night’s protest was organized by a group called Chainsaw Boston. Another group, called Boston Animal Advocates, takes credit for a November 8th rally, during which protestors attempted to get inside of the restaurant.
“We’re hoping restaurants can do the right thing and stop supporting this industry,” said protestor and Chainsaw member Andrew Walker. He says there has been communication with Pammy’s owners, Pam and Chris Willis, but that the two sides are currently at an impasse.
“The protesters unfortunately are not looking for discussion,” the restaurant’s statement said, meaning it has been resigned to calling the police when protestors have “acted in ways that make our guests and staff feel unsafe.”
Harassment and threats
The restaurant’s statement noted protestors have written threatening and harassing messages in chalk on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant, naming individual workers and Pam Willis herself. “It’s wildly disappointing to see major issues like sexual assault and human rights become cavalier insults and vandalism in chalk,” the statement said.
In addition, the restaurant said Pam Willis has been accosted and on Thursday night, while outside observing the protestors, one of them put their hands on her. Apparently realizing this could be considered an act of assault, the protestor fled before they could be identified or apprehended.
Protestors have also flashed strobe lights and blown whistles at patrons leaving the restaurant, the statement said. “We have had guests with PTSD and anxiety be triggered by their aggressiveness. We have had members of our community feel afraid to go outside. This disturbance is a public safety issue.”
Cambridge police confirmed on Saturday afternoon that “officers have responded to several recent protests at Pammy’s Restaurant, including on Thursday.” Police Sgt. Bob Reardon, Jr. also confirmed that officers took a incident report about the protestor putting hands on Pam Willis, noting that “the involved person was not on-scene when the incident was reported to officers and has not yet been identified. Detectives from the Criminal Investigation Section are investigating.”
A woman named Lisa who identified herself as part of Chainsaw Boston’s leadership responded to requests for comment Monday to say that a Pammy’s patron hit a protestor in the face, which was verbally reported to Cambridge police. A separate incident of a restaurant employee making physical contact with another protestor was also alleged. She also called on Pammy’s to release its security camera footage to verify the incident of physical contact Willis described.
Cambridge police confirmed the verbal report made by the protestor, saying officers did not see the incident but “a patron of the restaurant reported they had pushed a protesters hand away from their face after they were accosted outside the restaurant.” The police said no one was injured and neither protestor nor patron wished to pursue the matter.
Neighbors bear the brunt
While the noise from the protests is partially drowned out inside of the restaurant, residents who live near Pammy’s reported hearing them loud and clear inside their apartments. After two weeks of protests on most nights, many of them expressed their support for Pammy’s in the dispute.
“Last night, I went for dinner there because I’m tired of it,” said Isabella James, who lives a block away from Pammy’s. She said the topic of the protests was “silly” given other events happening in the country at the moment, referencing ongoing Immigration and Customs Enforcement raids by the Trump administration.
She wasn’t the only neighbor puzzled by the activists.
“They’re so f****** loud, and why are they drawing the line at foie gras and not factory farming?” said Emma Crenshaw, who also lives close to the restaurant. She and Jimmy Fay also ate there recently.
“For what it’s worth, the foie gras at Pammy’s is delicious,” said Fay.
Another resident, who asked to remain anonymous, reported that the noise got so loud one night it shook the windows of their apartment and scared their dog.
Protestors say they have support
When asked about the neighborhood impact, the protestors had a different story.
“Most of the neighbors we’ve talked to have been very supportive,” said Walker. He said once residents were educated on the ins and outs of producing foie gras, they became more sympathetic.
“In this MAGA-ridden country, people can still protest their thoughts,” said Hilary Fabre, a passerby, while the protests were ongoing. “I am surprised by the intensity.”
Yet others familiar with the activists’ aims still feel the protests represent an unwarranted attack on a small business and well-valued members of the community.
“Pammy’s is not a franchise … they could protest a distributor. It’s unfair,” said Ethan Miller, who bounces for The Plough and Stars, a popular neighborhood bar just across Hancock Street. Miller works four nights per week, and says for the last two weeks he’s seen protests every night he’s worked.
“Pammy is a genuine person. She’s reasonable,” said Miller, referring to Pammy’s co-owner Pam Willis. The Plough and Stars is a popular watering hole for many who work at the restaurant. “They’re demonizing them. It’s not right.”
This story has been updated to incorporate a Nov. 22 statement from Pammy’s and a statement later that day from the Cambridge Police Department. A response from Chainsaw Boston and the Cambridge police was added Nov. 26.
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Fois Gras is OK.
I prefer baked bone marrow, served in a container made from the bone it was scooped out of.
Rabbit spine marrow is the best but it’s a lot of work to suck out of those tiny bones.
I don’t like foie gras myself, and the methods to make it are barbaric— but loud, disruptive protests don’t do the activists any favors here. If they had just stood outside quietly and respectfully, that would have accomplished their aims without irritating everyone else. Go home, please.
“Most of the neighbors we’ve talked to have been very supportive,” said Walker.
As a neighbor on Hancock St, I can say this is an absolute lie. When I attempted to ask the protesters what group they were a part of or to explain their position, they would not answer me. Just a bunch of rude sociopathic a-holes.
Almost no one supports this sustained, aggressive behavior. This cult-like protest features electronic sirens, whistles, megaphones and flashing lights and is disruptive blocks away with all my windows closed. They are all wearing earplugs and headphones, so they know what kind of disruption they’re causing to a residential neighborhood.
They sell foie gras at Savenors and have been selling it since 1939. Why are they picking on this particular restaurant?
Maybe Pammy ought to put empathy before profit. This is animal torture.