Inman Square Middle Eastern fixture Moona has opened a new kitchen in Central Square, in preparation for its lease ending in 2027. Until then we can double our Moona pleasure. The new location on Main Street is nearly triple the size of its cozy, 30-seat Inman spot. It’s more cosmopolitan and crisper, too, but also offers the same welcoming homeyness with its nooks-and-cranny design.
These are two hubs of pan Mediterranean/Arabic yum — and they are distinctly different pleasures to be sure. All the food’s top-notch, styled Lebanese/pan-Middle Eastern infusion with nouvelle twists. But other than mezze and khubz (bread) the menus diverge into a long list of meticulously curated food from the minds behind both Moona kitchens.
On those mezzes and khubz—those bread accompanied starters—are what you might consider more traditionally mezze as they are your non-so-typical, typical spreads—hummus, baba ganouj (urfa and dill) and labneh (hot pepper)—with warm, house-made pita (da bread!). The hummus bil awarma (shredded lamb shoulder) is outstanding—creamy and rich with accents of rich oil, nutty flavoring and a vague honey sweetness. The bread comes in a separate side basket under a cloth napkin to help maintain its warmth and moisture to keep it pliable and pleasing. On the mezze side, think more falafel, with toum and green shatta (Lebanese garlic sauce and green peppers), brussel sprouts cum garlic yogurt, chickpeas, grape molasses and za’atar, some whipped feta and grape leaves stuffed with beef check and almonds, to be dragged through creamy labneh.
There’s a grill section (mashawi) of small plates with grilled squid with black shatta and parsnip skordalia (a spin on the traditional Greek garlic dipping sauce), beef shish, and market fish of the day. But it’s the moulard duck breast bazargan that should make you run to Moona Central for its lean, tender cubes of medium rare duck with a thin, crisp layer of fat reduced skin. It’s a savory, juicy explosion perfectly seasoned with bulgur and tamarind and accompanied by pine nuts, a smear of labneh and char-grilled brussels spouts to lend accent. Pair it with the lamb hummus and you’ll be walking on air.
Larger plates for the table (or sofra) are a half chicken with sumac and a date molasses-glazed lamb shank. Cocktail wise, the corner bar in the back is stately and elegant, and Moona’s spin on a whiskey sour with a creamy whipped froth and infusion of Middle Eastern spicing, is dry yet flavorfully complex.
The name Moona in Arabic means pantry, but this isn’t Old Mother Hubbard’s culinary basics and essentials. Moona is loyal to Middle Eastern comfort and roots, but it’s not cupboard-to-table. The ingredients are high quality and the kitchen delights in playfully creative twists. The result is something you know and something exotic — a yin and yang of delectable delight.
Moona is open for dinner, but I could see it also being a cafe/lunch time spot given its locale at the intersection between Central, MIT and Kendall Square’s hi-tech and life science heavy hub.
Moona, 750 Main St., Central Square, Cambridge
Cambridge writer Tom Meek’s reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in WBUR’s The ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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