A spicy chicken sandwich from bb.q Chicken in Cambridge’s Central Square. (Photo: Marc Levy)

Price: $7.95

When god closes a Bonchon, he opens a bb.q Chicken, and I couldn’t be more delighted that Cambridge still has a Korean fried chicken place (replacing the Middle Eastern Mass Chicken). But the spicy chicken sandwich at this chain’s outpost in Central Square is a bad miss on a good bun. The spicy sauce is fine, and so is the light but effective breading on the chicken patty – the intentions of that chicken breast are good too: There’s a lot of it. Too bad it’s a weird, squeaky mass of unfrozen meat with juice uncomfortably like … well, thawed chicken water. I found myself eating around the edges to avoid the chicken in a chicken sandwich. Fifteen minutes is also too long to wait for something arguably done better sitting under a heater at the neighboring 7-Eleven. I’m still all in to try the rest of the menu.

bb.q Chicken, 736 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge

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