Arepas by Carolicious at the Aeronaut Brewery in Somerville’s Ward 2, near Union Square. (Photo: Tom Meek)

The Venezuelan cantina Carolicious at the Aeronaut Brewery slings arepas and more, but not much more. The cooks focus on one thing and do it right.

An arepa is yummy street food that I’d describe as somewhere between a taco and a torta – not quite a shell, not quite a sandwich, but two slightly crisp, thick tortillalike maize patties filled with your choice of chicken, carnitas, beef or veggies accompanied by black beans, plantains and the operation’s signature basil sauce. This is not your Italian pesto, not even close, but more like a slightly sweet, basil-accented mayo.

While you eat your neatly packed handful, you can grab a beer from the adjacent Aeronaut Brewery, which has a delicious Japanese wheat ale and heavy, dark chocolate stout on tap. If you’ve never been, it’s a hip, arty open space with uber-high ceilings. Bands perform here, and there’s a lecture hall used for civic and cultural events. The Foods Hub has a series of kiosks and a larger, separated restaurant venue that formerly housed the chic and popular Tasting Counter. I was sad to see it depart last year but happy to see it soon will be replaced by Mimi’s Chūka Diner, a blend of Asian cuisine and American comfort food. The whole venue is a festive gathering place that’s casual and intimate with a homey, melting-pot vibe.

The story behind Carolicious is heartwarming, including a boost from a Nibble Kitchen program operated by the Somerville Arts Council to help immigrant entrepreneurs get ventures off the ground. The eatery began as a pop-up in 2016 and opened inside Aeronaut just in time for a Covid detour. It now boasts a sibling outpost at the MIT food court. 

Arepas are delicious, but messy. I got the chicken pabellón style with rice, black beans, plantains, pico de gallo and mozzarella, as well as another arepa with just black beans and mozz. Both came with that basil sauce and, to clue you in, a fork sticking up out of them. You have to eat strategically – most definitely with the aid of that fork – or some of that fresh, gooey white cheese and rich black beaniness will end up between your fingers. 

They are addictive, though, with their perfectly melted cheese and golden-crisp yet pliable maize handholds. Not up for extra napkins? Taking a page from Chipotle, you can get your pabellón or any other arepa combo as a bowl, which makes it easier to eat but less fun; you miss out on the maize main event. 

Carolicious is gluten-free gooey goodness that also serves up vegan and makes sweet arepas (strawberry, chocolate and brownie takes) and stocks displays of brownies and chocolate chip cookies up front and center at the kiosk.

Carolicious at Aeronaut Brewing, 14 Tyler St., Ward 2 near Union Square, Somerville

Tom Meek is a writer living in Cambridge. His reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in the WBUR ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.