Thai street food continues to flourish locally. In the past we’ve talked up What A Soup, 9Zaab and Chicken & Co. – all at far corners (Central Square, East Cambridge and North Cambridge, respectively) – and now we’re onto Hen in Union Square.
As the name implies, Hen is all about the bird. It’s a no-frills, come-for-the-food place that, even if you eat in the tiny cafe space, has your cluck dishes come in what are basically to-go bowls.
The slate at Hen is listed with English monikers as well as with Thai subtitles that all include the words gai (chicken) and khao (rice). For rice there’s healthy brown, regular white and Jasmine; the chicken for various dishes comes as either breast or thigh meat.
But what’s next to know about fowl in Thai street food is that there’s crispy-fried and boiled. The latter isn’t something you find often on menus, not in this town anyhow, but for me, eating at Hen and having Thai street food in general is all about that boiled bird – I mean, you can’t really get more healthy, and here it is wildly tender, with a sublime succulence, and comes with a sataylike peanut sauce to dip into. Guiltless and delectable.
As far as accoutrements and arrangements go, the spicy chicken plate (“The Heat,” or khao gai zaap) comes with a hot red sauce, while the boiled chicken bowl (“The Lean,” or khao og gai) comes with a soylike dipping side.
This boiled chicken comes with the skin on; if boiled skin ain’t your thing – it’s not really mine – at least know it peels off easily with the spork or chopsticks your meal comes with.
For your crispy cluck, you can again get regular or spicy. The spicy has more flavor and seasoning to it, though both versions are surprisingly juicy and moist (Raising Cane’s fans, take note) – but is not super hot.
And if you dial up Hen – I think it would make a good small-party catering call – make sure you get the sticky mango rice to polish off you experience. What about “sticky mango rice” is not to like? The infusion of the juice and flavors is sweet and satiating, and the texture is smooth and supple.
Boiled chicken atop sticky mango friend rice? Now that’s something this bird would love to try.
Hen, 24 Union Square, Somerville
Tom Meek is a writer living in Cambridge. His reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in the WBUR ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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