There’s cause for some delight among fans of Mary Chung’s, the well-loved outpost of Szechuan spice nestled next to The Middle East in Central Square for a strong 40-year run. But brows may also rise upon strolling into Darling, the upscale Asian-themed cocktail bar that has taken over the space with grand designs that go beyond an embrace of what came before. Gone are the homey yellow carpeting and red-upholstered banquettes. In their stead you enter through a narrow switchback passage to emerge into a long interior laid out with an expansive bar on one side and ample dining space on the other. The decor is dark, minimalist and cosmopolitan with spartan, Scandinavian sensibilities infused with Japanese feng shui. Glass liquor shelves span the entirety, backlit elegantly, the lobby bar at Stanley Kubrick’s Overlook Hotel if updated by Ikea. It’s cozy, festive and slightly aloof all at once.
Cocktails are first and foremost, with names such as The Holy Trinity, HK French Toast and Gorgeous & Arrogant. Sake and Japanese gin and whiskey are the usual suspects in many of the mixology mashups. While perusing the house slate, a friendly staffer recommended a sake martini (Darling has a well curated selection of cold sakes), which came in the most delicate martini glass I think I’ve ever handled – eggshell and elegant. The drink was smooth and masculine without an overpowering booziness or sweetness. The tang of the vodka and effervescence of the sake played seamlessly together.
Darling’s owners and executive chef have pedigree from heralded area eateries such as Tiger Mama, Eastern Standard and O’ya. They’ve created, in concept, something of an izakaya with dim sum as the focus instead of sushi and yakitori skewers. The lineup of a dozen delectables offers nouvelle spins on pork ribs with garlic and pepper sauce, Chinese broccoli and a spiced cucumber salad with fermented tofu skin. A highlight is the suan la chow show, Darling’s take on Mary Chung’s classic – a soupy ginger-soy mixture with thin-skinned spicy pork potstickers and an ample supply of fresh sprouts on top. This reimagining is perhaps not as spicy, but has dumplings that compare well in size and texture.
The spicy Szechuan dandan noodles were another reason to wander in to Mary Chung’s. If you’re looking for something similar on Darling’s menu, try the soy sauce noodles, which somehow hit the same spot despite being more of fried, crispy-ish noodle dish than Mary’s slippery and peppery slurp-ables. Darling is committed to ever-changing menus, so perhaps there will be a dandan in time?
Naturally there are baos to be had, a crispy enoki and filet-o-fish that is simply finely fried whitefish, scallions galore and a puckering tartar sauce with American cheese tucked into a fluffy fold – simple and savory. Also recommended: the shrimp toast, a lightly fried thick bread akin to a Texas toast crowned with a mango salsa and ground shrimp paste that is simple but flavorful and thoroughly satiating. For the adventurous, there are roasted duck feet to be had.
Darling fits in well with sophisticated area speakeasies such as Brick & Mortar, right there in Central Square, and Backbar in Somerville’s Union Square. On a Tuesday night in the middle of the summer, the new Darling was already pretty packed; once the kids are back in town, you can see a line forming to get through that clubby switchback.
Darling, 464 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge
Cambridge writer Tom Meek’s reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in WBUR’s The ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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