For nearly 40 years Rudy’s Cafe was a go-to staple in Teele Square serving Mexican comfort food to Tufts students, family herds and those seeking a tequila bar with a broad inventory of agave in casual yet aptly festive atmosphere. The beloved cornerstone fizzled out, as many did, during COVID.
As we know from the adage—when one door closes, another opens. Such is the happy case as The Hollows has recently hung the open sign at the junction of Holland and Broadway. The layout has not changed one iota, but the vibe has. It’s still cozy and casual, but instead of Tex-Mex there’s a retro zing to things. “Thunderbirds,” Adult Swim-like adult animation play on the TVs and GWAR and other heavy-metal and punk band concert bills plaster the wall adjacent to the bar. You could think of it as the B-Side (RIP) or the Delux Cafe—the defiant outpost of defiance in Back Bay, whose persistence is greatly admired and appreciated—rebooted and reimagined and something to be happy for, because culturally cross-threaded gastro pubs with a bit of growl and sassitude seem to be on the wane these days. Like the Delux, the food at The Hollows is quiet quality at a really good price. It’s a tight but far-ranging menu with comfort staples such as American chop suey, fried chicken, cheese fries, steamed mussels and a burger (of course).
It also steers into the more adventurous with a lobster bisque, braised tripe, roasted haddock and a catch of the day. The portions are generous and then some. If you dig crisp and lean, yet like juicy bacon bits, then The Hollows is your jam. Their frisée salad, that by this human’s assessment is a trendy “chopped” with the chicory of the title as its centerpiece, is loaded with thick cubes of well-cured pork. It also comes with a delicately poached egg and a tangy balsamic dressing. Then there’s the grilled octopus, a tender, succulent tentacle atop a bed of white beans and said bacon bits.
The things on the menu that took me by genuine surprise were that buttermilk-fried chicken and that thick homarus stew. A week ago, in our year-end write up of foods that resonated with us in 2025, we extolled the virtues of those putting new spins on our coveted New England lobstah while respecting the delicate nuance of its tender white flesh. Like Bar Enza’s fisherman stew (currently not on the menu) and Moëca’s lobster gnocchi, Hollows’s bisque is a rich, dark lobster reduction that’s more meaty and thick than the usual pink slurp. It’s more savory, too, and at the Hollows, they pack it with generous nuggets of crustacean, peeled potatoes and carrots. The folks stewing it get all the textures right, the lobster is—as one can only hope and want—succulent and meaty, the carrots and potatoes a dial under al dente. It’s shocking how good the bowl is from steaming entry to bottom-scraping spoonful. It’s a nothing special, done exceptionally well.
And then there’s the chicken. I can’t count how many times I’ve been disappointed by fried chicken in the Boston area — over-seasoned batters, thick shells of breading, and bland meat beneath. No harm, no fowl, but still. I used to love Swanson’s fried chicken TV dinners: not exactly virtuous, but undeniably savory and addictive. The Hollows hits that nostalgic sweet spot. The batter is nearly tempura-thin but richly seasoned, making the skin crisp without becoming a barrier. It locks in moisture, so the meat stays juicy and flavorful — no dry, chalky white meat destined for tomorrow’s chicken-salad sandwich.
Both are comfort food dialed up — satisfying, indulgent, and surprisingly affordable.
The kitschy gothic concept behind The Hollows comes as no surprise, given that one of its principal partners and chefs is Charlie Redd, who also runs Dragon Pizza and the adjoining Dragon’s Lair in Davis Square.
The Hollows isn’t the Dragon’s Lair to be sure — but it shares the same playful, inviting energy. It also shares the Dragon gelato, which is very much worth your spoon. The chocolate, in particular, is a standout: dark, dense, and studded with almost cookie-dough-like pockets. It’s decadent without being cloying. There are nods to Rudy’s, too: the fireplace remains, the house margarita lives on, and the appetizer list includes Rudy’s queso cauldron — chips and cheese, or nachos.
Next door, of course, looms the Teele Square pit — the long-stalled development once slated to become a hotel. It remains a neighborhood curiosity and source of frustration. But step inside The Hollows, and you’re transported somewhere warmer and more welcoming — the hole be damned.
The Hollows, 1166 Cambridge St., Teele Square, Somerville
Cambridge writer Tom Meek’s reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in WBUR’s The ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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