In my opinionated Greek-American family, we had heated debates about almost everything. Except baklava. My parents were restaurant owners in neighboring New York, and at family gatherings, baklava was in endless supply, and always made the same way, whether here in the U.S. or our family’s home in Icaria, Greece: layers of phyllo (filo) dough, interspersed spices, a honey-based syrup, and walnuts.
Years later, I moved to Antalya, Turkey and discovered baklava on the other side of the Aegean. Turkish baklava uses pistachios instead of walnuts, typically omits the spices, and sometimes includes citrus in the syrup. Given the pistachio, Turks call this “fistikli baklava” (baklava with pistachio). While this difference may seem trivial, it is not. The texture, taste, and aesthetics are quite different. Pistachios are much smaller than walnuts, so the switch meaningfully changes the texture of the baklava. Each bite feels smaller, more dense and less heterogeneous — a more cohesive and streamlined experience. Further, the modified honey syrup concentrated at the lower pastry levels contributes to a different overall taste. Last, there is also a dynamic aesthetic change — the pistachios introduce a delightful green color in the middle of the baklava.
While I was in Turkey, I visited Gaziantep, nicknamed Antep, which is famous for its baklava. Antep, located in Turkey’s south near the border with Syria, is proximate to some of the world’s best pistachio orchards. The photo (from October 25, 2013) below depicts this unforgettable sweet meal.
Later, I learned that Greece has its own regional variations of baklava that include almond-based, finely-layered, high rise baklava, and “sugar baklava” that has no filo at all!
As it happens, Cambridge and its neighbors have a number of baklava varieties, many of which I have sampled and greatly enjoyed.
I’ve been visiting Half Shell Pizza & More on Massachusetts Avenue between Harvard and Porter since college, when I lived down the street, and their Greek-style walnut baklava has always reminded me of home. However, their baklava comes with a twist: they sprinkle pistachio on top. I was recently chatting with the owners, and they told me that their family hails from the eastern side of Crete, near Iraklion, but this baklava is their own unique construction.
The pistachio baklava at Luxor, an Egyptian cafe near Harvard Square, reminds me of the Turkish-style flavors I had in Antalya and Antep, plus a twist: a version with chocolate. I’d never tried chocolate baklava before, it was pretty life-changing. Once you go chocolate baklava, you can’t go back! My partner and I live near Luxor and really appreciate having such a tasty snack in our backyard, though we have to be careful how frequently we sample the baklava, or else we may have some regrets down the road.
In West Cambridge, Sofra Bakery & Cafe sells two main baklava types, reflecting a mix of traditions. Sofra’s website comments that they “offer sweet, savory, and contemporary interpretations of the traditional cuisines of Turkey, Lebanon, and Greece.” This feels true to me! The staff there told me they recently changed the shape of their pistachio baklava to a carrot shape, with fenugreek syrup, filo dough, and pistachio butter. Their chocolate hazelnut baklava contains bittersweet chocolate (60%), alongside cocoa cinnamon syrup and honey. This combination produces delicious baklava!
In Somerville, Yafa Bakery & Café, a Palestinian spot, offers a jaw-dropping selection of baklava. The owner told me that they have five major nut types: pistachio, hazelnut, almond, cashews, and walnut. There is no limitation when it comes to spices, and they are known for cardamom and cinnamon. They add orange blossoms to each baklava, and sometimes rose water as an alternative. They mainly use filo dough, but sometimes kataifi dough. The baking temperature matters, too, as it changes the texture. All in all, they offer a rich selection of baklava options (my favorite is the pistachio). My mom thought so, too.
I still enjoy the baklava at family events, including at the recent launch of my sister’s new restaurant MEZŌ Mediterraneanin Dedham. Their baklava is imported from Greece and offers the traditional phyllo dough, crushed walnuts, and honey syrup.
Along this journey, I’ve been delighted to learn that there are many ways to make baklava! All are delicious, but each offers a distinct experience.
Feel free to share about your favorite baklava in the comments below!
A stronger
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