Given the lowly state of the Pats, the Super Bowl’s not the event it used to be around – not like when Tom Brady and Bill Belichick regularly hoisted the Lombardi Trophy. That said, it’s still a rite with plenty of hype that folks will dial into for just the ads (up to $8 million for a 30-second spot) and halftime show (hello, Kendrick!). And for that indulgence, you need wings and things, so where to get them around Cambridge and Somerville? Here’s just a quick hit of some of our favorites to get you warmed up, pregamed and through the gridiron rematch between the Eagles and Chiefs.
Starting with some pizza pies: Armando’s Pizza & Subs, the three-generation-run pizzeria on the neck of Huron Avenue, makes a basic New York-style ’za with a slightly crisp, thin crust, tangy marinara and uber cheesy cheese. The cozy outpost is rigged for takeout (and takes only cash). Sticking with classic old-school comfort and three-cheese slices, Harvard House of Pizza’s been at it in Cambridge almost as long as Armando’s but has a totally different style, with a thicker, deeper crust. The pleasurable first bite of a slice’s tip carries that same transportive explosion of cheese, though a tad on the greasy side – in this case, one of its charms. Harvard House also has killer mozzarella garlic bread that’s a perfect preamble to those pies. When I order from Armando’s and Harvard House, I most always go in for the basic cheese, a clean and simple choice that delivers on so many levels, but you could go all in with the Harvard Special, which comes with a kitchen-sink approach to toppings: pepperoni, sausage, ham, salami, hamburger, mushroom, onions and green peppers.
Stoked Pizza and Source in Harvard Square make other meat-lovers’ pies that lean toward the gourmet. The two make similar doughy Neapolitans – though at Source you can request the thinner, crispier New York style. The sausage and pepperoni options at Source are boss level. At Stoked I got the basic sausage and mushroom, but you can go all in here too: Get the Porky, with bacon, sausage and pepperoni. Stokes makes a vegetarian version of its meatball pizza and has a whole menu of wings should you want to get both for a bowl watch party.
For something different, let me point you to Avenue Kitchen & Bar in Ball Square and Gran Gusto out near Danehy Park. Avenue is one of the few places around town that makes Detroit-style pizza, a puffy, crustless square with cheese and sauce that goes right to the edge – and that sauce is sweet, tangy and divine. Get the basic Reg; add pepperoni if you must, but it’s not necessary. For white pizza, there is no other than the O’Re at Gran Gusto with its super fresh buffalo mozzarella, truffle oil and truffle pâté with the leanest-of-the-lean prosciutto applied after the pie is out of the oven so it’s not dried out.
On to the wings and things. My most recent love affair with the chicken wing is char-grilled from the Greek restaurant Zo in Assembly Square. Marinated in olive oil, lemon and Greek herbs and spices, they come up super lean, juicy and fall-off-the-bone easy to eat. Redbones in Davis slings wings, but it’s the Buffalo shrimp posing as chicken wings that’s the winner there. Since it’s a barbecue joint, there are a lot of other takeout options to serve guests, and Redbones is built to serve in bulk. One of my favorite stealth wing eats is The Abbey in Porter Square, where they are crisp and lean but not burdened by overuse of batter. They’re almost like a confit in texture; a neat hack I’ve learned is to ask for the Buffalo-esque hot sauce on the side and use it as more of a dip or drizzle, which makes for less mess and allows you to self-regulate your heat factor.
At Himalayan Kitchen in Union Square, where you can get funky pies with a South Asian touch as well as the signature momo dumplings, the wings to try are the roasted Punjabi (not too spicy; it’s more a mild chili accent) or Bombay (with lemon, herbs and special house sauce) – like Zo’s, worldly comments on Americana pub classics. Another game changer is the double-smoked wings at Longfellow Bar in Harvard Square, which serves only the flat of the wing with its darker, more tender meat and the second bone removed so they are easier to eat. Even though the meat is falling off the bone, these are a delicious mess to eat, well worth a run to the nearest sink for a wash-up.
Little Donkey in Central Square serves party packs of wings specifically for Super Bowl watch parties. Its Thai chili option entices and could be what I pick up for Sunday, as that’s my daughter’s go-to for wings. Not into meat? The Buffalo tofu at Cambridge Common is an old favorite from Christopher’s that migrated and makes for a fine substitute.
Be sure to check delivery options and know that an expected snowstorm could affect operations and delivery. Only Armando’s and Harvard House serve slices; if you can score a seat, Source, Avenue Bar and Cambridge Common can make for a decent watch spot along with places such as Olde Magoun’s Saloon and Shine Square.
The Abbey, 1755 Massachusetts Ave., Baldwin near Porter Square, Cambridge
Armando’s Pizzas & Subs, 163 Huron Ave., Observatory Hill, West Cambridge
Avenue Kitchen & Bar, 158 Boston Ave., Ball Square, Somerville
Cambridge Common, 1667 Massachusetts Ave., in the Baldwin neighborhood between Harvard and Porter squares
Gran Gusto, 90 Sherman St., across from Danehy Park in Neighborhood 9
Harvard House of Pizza, 1706 Massachusetts Ave., Neighborhood 9
Himalayan Kitchen, 40 Bow St., Union Square, Somerville
The Longfellow Bar at Alden & Harlow, 40 Brattle St., Harvard Square
Redbones, 55 Chester St., Davis Square, Somerville
Source, 27 Church St., Harvard Square
Stoked, 1611 Massachusetts Ave., in the Baldwin neighborhood near Harvard Square, Cambridge
Cambridge writer Tom Meek’s reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in WBUR’s The ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
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